A trip to make Charles Darwin jealous.
By Hudson Lindenberger
Looking for a unique adventure off the beaten path? The Channel Islands National Park, located off the coast in sight of Santa Barbara, certainly offers one. You can only get there by boat or plane, and the park is one of the least visited in the national park system. This has created a portal back into a time when California was pristine and unspoiled. It might take some effort to get there but you will be pleased with the results.
The islands became part of the National Park system in 1980 when Congress decided that the fragile habitats located off the California coast needed long-term protection. Due to their relative isolation from the mainland, a diverse and varied ecosystem has flourished. The Channel Island National Park website describes it this way: “Like the Galapagos Islands of South America, isolation has allowed evolution to proceed independently on the islands. Marine life ranges from microscopic plankton to the blue whale, the largest animal to live on Earth. Archeological and cultural resources span a period of more than 13,000 years of human habitation.” The islands are home to more than 2,000 plant and animal species including over 145 found nowhere else in the world.
The native Chumash Indians inhabited the islands for thousands of centuries before the arrival of Europeans in the 16th century. As times progressed the native population disappeared and by the 19th century the islands were home to enormous sheep and cattle ranches. During the middle part of the 20th century the military presence on the islands increased due to World War II and later Cold War tensions. The remnants of the ranching operations and military installation are still evident today and lend the islands a historical feel.
The five islands that comprise the park – San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa and Santa Barbara – encompass both the terrestrial and marine environment off shore. Due to the protection offered by the National Park system the aquatic landscape is stunningly robust. Depending on the time of year, you may see California sea lions, harbor seals, northern elephant seals, bottlenose dolphins, or a variety of whales, including orcas, grey, blue, humpback, sperm and pilot whales.
Diving caves off Anacapa Island. Photo courtesy of Truth Aquatics.
The islands are also home to numerous sea caves including one of the largest in the world, Painted Cave on Santa Cruz Island, which measures more than 1,200 feet long and 100 feet wide. Legend has it that the sea caves were popular smuggler hideouts during prohibition. Today the numerous beaches, caves and marine life offer an opportunity to experience what California was like before 38-million people decided to call it home.
Ready to enjoy this unspoiled beauty? We take the guesswork out for you and offer three great ways to enjoy this exceptional National Park.
One-Day Aquatic Adventures
If you only have one day to visit and yearn for a sojourn on the sea, there are several outfitters offering memorable trips.
Channel Island Outfitters has offered specialized ocean-kayaking trips around the islands for more than 20 years. To explore the caves and coves of the east side of Santa Cruz Island, you depart from Ventura harbor aboard a high-speed catamaran operated by Island Packers. During the one-hour crossing you can relax while keeping an eye out for dolphins and whales. Upon arrival, you will meet your guides and be outfitted with gear for a day upon the high seas. Your wetsuit will keep you warm as you paddle along the shoreline for the two and a half hour trip. Lunch is not provided, so make sure you bring a mid-day feast to enjoy on the beach after exploring the caves. After lunch you have several hours to snorkel, sunbathe or hike the shoreline.
Alternatively, you can try a one-day excursion among the Arches of Anacapa Island – a unique trip not to be missed. Island Packers will ferry you across the blue seas to the three islets that compose Anacapa. Once you are safely ensconced in your kayak you will embark on a tour of the Eastern Islet. You will paddle under the forty foot tall Anacapa Arch, beneath 100-foot cliffs and over colossal kelp beds. Part of the journey takes you past a large beach filled with Sea Lions and, if time and weather permit, you can finish with a hike to the top of Inspiration Point. http://www.channelislandso.com
Truth Aquatics has a fleet of three live-aboard boats that have been plying the waterways around the Channel Islands since 1974. Primarily a dive company, they also offer kayak excursions to several of the islands depending upon demand and time of year. The most popular trip is a one-day island adventure to Santa Cruz. The difference between Truth and other outfitters is their fleet of boats. They have equipped each boat with numerous berthing opportunities, large outdoor grills, spacious galley’s, ample outdoor seating and top-notch provisions.
Fresh food grilling on the deck of The Truth. Photo courtesy of Truth Aquatics.
On your crossing from Santa Barbara harbor you can roam the boat enjoying the breakfast the crew has prepared for the morning. If any benthic behemoths are milling about, your vessel will approach them for a closer look. Upon arriving at Santa Cruz Island, you’ll get a brief tour of Painted Cave and then the ship will anchor and allow you to explore on your own in a sea kayak or atop a stand-up paddleboard. After you have tired yourself out on the water, you will enjoy a barbecue lunch on the boat – and don’t forget to pack a bottle of wine for your return channel crossing. http://www.truthaquatics.com/index.html
The Darwinian Delight
The Channel Islands National Park has earned the moniker “American Galapagos” due to its particular location and relative isolation. The best way to experience all of the natural grandeur is on foot, exploring the islands with a National Park naturalist guiding you. The Sierra Club Angeles chapter offers trips starting in March and continuing through October. The trips are three days in length with lodging upon one of Truth Aquatics live-aboard boats. The itinerary changes for each trip, based upon the time of year and what natural delights are at their peak.
“Weaners,” baby elephant seals freshly weaned fending for themselves on San Miguel Island. Photo courtesy of Sierra Club Angeles Chapter.
San Miguel in the spring brings elephant seals calving on the beaches and then abandoning their babies to head into the sea. The baby seals allow visitors to approach them for photos. San Miguel also is home to the giant coreopsis, a plant with unique flowers that look like something straight out of Dr Seuss. A 16-mile round-trip hike to Point Bennett offers you a rare glimpse into nature with more than 30,000 seals and sea lions on the beach.
Fog and wildflowers on the highlands of San Miguel Island. Photo courtesy of Sierra Club Angeles Chapter.
Santa Rosa is home to a rare Torrey pine forest, unspoiled by mankind. Lobo Canyon offers moss draped oak trees offset by spectacular sandstone cliffs leading to a spectacular secluded beach.
Santa Cruz, the largest island, offers numerous excursions and outings. The island’s 140-year history of cattle and sheep ranching is still evident today even though operations ceased more than 20 years ago. The old Scorpion Ranch building is still standing as a stubborn reminder of days gone by. The island is home to numerous steep canyons and towering mountains and provides a glimpse of California’s past.
Anacapa is home to the historic Anacapa Island Lighthouse that is still used to this day. The island was the end of many a maritime trip in the past as numerous ships broke apart on its rocky shore, and one such ship, the Winfield Scott, is visible off its shore.
The trips offer full or half day hiking excursions on each island you visit along with kayaking and snorkeling to wind the daily adventure down. Dinner is a highlight of the trip with fresh feasts being grilled aboard the ship and served on deck so you can watch the world float by. While alcohol is not offered on the ship, you are welcome to bring your own libations. http://angeles2.sierraclub.org/
The Underwater Safari
Since the waters off the coast of the park are protected, the sea is teeming with large schools of fish, sea mammals galore and the spectacular beauty of looming kelp forests. Truth Aquatics offers numerous dive trips ranging from single day to multi-day excursions. “Most visitors miss the true beauty of the park, due to the fact it is underwater,” says Brad Killeen, assistant manager. “Diving the kelp forests is surreal, like walking amongst the redwood forests up north. The marine life is abundant due to the limited fishing, and often sea lions come visit while you are under the water.”
Fresh lobsters in their natural habitat. Photo courtesy of Truth Aquatics.
Wreck diving is a highlight of any visit to the park with more than 30 mapped ship and plane wrecks littering the shallows surrounding the islands. Truth Aquatics will plan a trip for you depending on your abilities and conditions. The sunken structures provide artificial reefs that become home to a large variety of marine life.
Santa Barbara Island, the smallest of the group, offers an opportunity to get up close and personal with sea lions. The island supports a large rookery and the pups have been known to spend hours playing with divers and offering numerous opportunities to shoot a unique photo.
Truth Aquatics will fully equip you in gear, serve you great meals while on board, and send you home with tales of undersea wonders. http://www.truthaquatics.com/diving.html
Make it a point to visit this hidden gem located off the coast and experience all it offers – you wont be sorry.
Featured image above: The Conception at anchor in Bechers Bay, Santa Rosa Island. Photo courtesy of Sierra Club Angeles Chapter.